月: 2026年8月

購入すると20万円程度という音を立体的に録音することができるAmbisonicマイク。「20万円は高すぎるので、自作してしまおう！」と本当に実現してしまった人がいる。会社員であり、兼業ミュージシャンであり、またプライベートスタジオのオーナーでもある木村玲(きむらりょう)氏が、その人だ。

Download this free 3D print file designed by garshtostoles. my goal for this project was to create a ready made all in one diy mount to use the oball as a windjammer/baby ball gag for the ubiquitous clippy microphone. the 1st party official option directly from micbooster.com, while i’m sure is very high quality and durable, is also extremely expensive, and if you live outside of the UK, the time from ordering to delivery is not great. a common DIY alternative is to use an oball (a semi flexible hollow ball toy for babies) as an outer shell, upon which a deadcat (an outer cover which is covered with synthetic fur) can be placed to block wind from causing wind noise in outdoor field recordings. the issue i ran into after ordering my clippy mics and looking for cheap DIY options, is that the only options i found online were for adapting premade mounts that you have to buy, usually the 1st party clippy lyre mount, to work with the oball. there are other 3d printable mounting options like a shock mount ORTF, a small shock mount that uses elastic hair ties, and a magnetic mount, but none of these incorporate the oball. originally i planned to buy a pair of Audix MCMICRO Mic Stand Adapters and make a sheath to allow these to go in oballs, but after reading reviews saying they are not very durable, and realizing that i would be 3d modeling and 3d printing something, i figured, why not just design and 3d print the entire thing? if i can do that, then anyone with a 3d printer who wants a cheap option can print a mostly complete mounting solution for the cost of a couple grams of filament, a common nut that can be bought for pocket change at any hardware store, an oball which are about 5 bucks each and available on amazon and even some physical retail stores, and a blue snowball mic deadcat/windscreen, which you can get on amazon for 10 bucks each. the blue snowball mic, which is a very common microphone, and an oball, are the same diameter- 4 inches. i tried to design a support system that mimics the functionality of a lyre mount for some shock resistance between the microphone and tripod or whatever it’s mounted on, but i can’t make any promises about how well it works. if you’re leaving your microphones stationary for ambient recording then i doubt there will be any problems with this. if you’re mounting one or a pair of these on top of a camera and running around with it then i have no idea. the clip that attaches to the microphone fits onto the same place that the 1st party lyre mount attaches to, and i have included a small ridge in the middle of it that fits in the little retaining groove that this are on the mic housing has that the included clip pinch ring thing fits inside of, so that it won’t be able to inadvertently slip out of the mount. you can click the microphone in and out of the mount by pressing it into it from above, but i don’t recommend doing this for the sake of long term durability. it will stretch the arms that hug the mic housing. ideally with a nice durable material, this only flexes it and it doesn’t cause permanent bending, but i made these with PLA which does have some flex, but in testing taking it in and out like this, even with good non brittle PLA, i found that it pretty quickly caused the mount to not grip the mic housing as tightly as they do when newly printed and created wiggle room. the edges around the mount where the mic housing goes in are slightly beveled. i put the rear cable/strain relief side in first and press it in, wiggling it a little, and then press straight back against the front of the mic and it will snap into place. to remove, i push up against the underside of the front end of the mic to get it to disengage from the retaining ridge, and then you should be able to easily pull it out forward. assembly will require liquid superglue. i recommend liquid, not gel, because the fit is pretty tight between the pegs on the bottom of the shock mount, and the holes that they go inside of in the base. liquid super glue will be thin so it should flow easily and smoothly so that the pegs can bottom out and seat fully. you will only need a small dab of glue in each of the specified areas. glue the nut in first and press it firmly into place. if you use too much glue it can get in the threads which will make putting it on a tripod or other mount difficult. after pressing the nut into place with glue, look at the underside and if you see any globs of superglue squeezed out into where the screw goes through to thread into the nut, you can put a q tip in this area and spin it around to swab the excess glue off. the only thing the nut glue does is keep the nut from falling out when the mount isn’t installed on a tripod or mount so you don’t need much, and the gap between the outside of the nut and the inside of the slot it fits into in the base is pretty small. you might also be able to use hot glue instead of superglue but i don’t know what the results will be. superglue is cheap and a lot of people already have some, so i don’t see any reason not to use it. gorilla glue would also work if you have some of that already, although the cure time is pretty long so probably let it sit over night before using it. something like 2 part epoxy would be massive overkill. after the nut is glued in and it’s been given a minute to cure, insert and remove the pegs into the holes they go in WITHOUT GLUE a couple of times. you can also wiggle the pegs in the holes while you are inserting and removing them. your goal here is break in the mating surfaces (especially the corners) so that the pegs can insert easily and smoothly when you glue them. if you insert them with a very tight fit then the glue could harden it in place only part way into its full intended travel. i printed mine with bambu brand basic PLA. if you use a different printer and or different filament, the tolerances could be slightly different. if tolerances are way off and they don’t fit, then you might need to file or sand a little bit off of the sides and edges of the pegs until they fit into the holes. shaving thin amounts of plastic off of the pegs with something like an exacto knife might also work. the quarter inch base only has two parts per peg that need glue, which is in the bottom of the peg hole, and where the support foot touches the top surface of the base. when you glue it, press it firmly into place. if excess glue squeezes out and you want to clean it up then have a couple q tips on hand to swiftly wipe in the corners where the glue is to wipe away the excess, or you can leave it as is and give it extra time for the extra glue that squeezed out to cure. the three eighths version of the base has three spots where glue goes, which is in the bottom of the peg hole and where the support foot goes the same as the quarter inch version, but also where the inside side of the shock mount touches the sleeves that protrudes upward to fully encase the taller nut.in case anyone wants to print this outside of the bambu ecosystem and the 3mf file doesn’t work and the settings can’t carry over to whatever slicer you’re using, here are some important print parameters. -print with 100% infill with concentric infill pattern if available in your slicer. this will get most of the lines of extruded filament in the lyre mount running parallel. this is good for durability in the mic mount areas where any flexion will happen perpendicular to the direction that the filament is extruded in, when inserting and removing the clippy mic. this is good for mechanical strength in that area. if you print with sparse infill, you are asking for premature bending or breakage in flex points. these parts are small they barely take any filament, just use 100% infill. don’t be stingy. -all parts can be printed without supports but i recommend using supports for the overhang of the upper lip on the bases, which is the only place it is needed, so that those print properly. i use tree supports. -i use random seam position. i doubt this will have any effect on functionality or durability if you want to use an inline seam position. -i recommend ironing top surfaces to smooth out the top surface of the lyre mounts in the peg area. as i’ve said this was designed, and i have succesfully printed it many times, with tight but perfectly functional tolerances, and i have been using top surface ironing.-i have not tried printing this with anything other than bambu pla basic. if anyone wants to try printing with something else, i would be glad to hear what you used and what the results are as a comment or make. i’d be interested to know if a different filament can handle snapping it in and out straight up and down through the top of the “arms” without causing bending and loss of grip on the mic housing. -not a printing tip but when installing an oball into the indent in the base that it fits into, it is much easier to put it on when the base is screwed into a tripod, than fiddling with it all loose. the base goes into the large hole and just to be safe, you should put it in the large hole in the center of a color where it is surrounded by the same color hole on all sides, to not risk tearing any of the plastic weld seams when stretching the hole apart with surrounding holes for leverage, which may be weak points in its construction when used in this way which was certainly not intended by the manufacturer. -another non printing tip, before trying to put the mic in the mount with the oball on, try putting the mic in the mount without the oball so you can do it easily and get a feel for inserting and removing the mic in the way i’ve described and recommended. it can be a little bit finnicky and it could be hard to do with your fingers through the oball if you don’t already know how to get it in smoothly. lastly if there are any scaling hiccups or you want to double check dimensions to make sure everything is correct, both bases should be 35mm in diameter. scale the lyre mo…

内部に供給電源を持たないタイピンマイクロホン、ヘッドセットマイクロホン専用の電源BOXです。

＜対応機種＞ EM4050、EM4114、HM40

[⼊⼒]　φ3.5 ステレオミニジャック
[出⼒]　φ3.5 ミニプラグ
[電源]　単三乾電池　 ※充電池非対応
[付属品]　φ6.34 変換プラグ（CV50）